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How to turn leeks into a silky, sweet pan of deliciousness

Romance was on the menu, so my friend Pam suggested leeks. Her logic eluded me. Because the leggy vegetables grow layered, like love? Because, as cousins to onions, they provoke tears? Because they’re dirty? She didn’t explain. I took her recipe nonetheless. It called for blistering the leeks under fearsome heat. Braising them into submission. And…